Day 3 (25th July) was my birthday, and we had a busy day planned. The aim was to get to the other side of Chester ready for a day out at Chester Zoo tomorrow (26th July). In order to do that we’d have to do 14 locks, which would be a new record for us.
After some present opening
we set off for the nearby Bunbury staircase locks – our first ever staircase. This is a small staircase of just 2 locks. We joined a boat called Serenade with a friendly lady who was going through single-handed and appreciated me & Sarah doing the lock work so she could stay on her boat.

Bunbury Staircase Locks
So we began the staircase with Chestnut Thrush & Serenade in the top lock, going down (since turning off the Middlewich Branch we had begun going down instead of up!) and another boat in the bottom lock coming up. For some reason I found it hard to grasp the idea of people going up and down at the same time at first, but I got my head round it. You have to do a little maneuvering when the 2 locks become level, with boats moving one at a time, but you soon get things sorted and swap places prior to preparing to exit the staircase from opposite ends!

Two coming down, one going up (Chestnut Thrush is up there on the left)
After the maneuvring, Chestnut Thrush & Serenade waited in the bottom lock for it to empty before continuing on our way. We agreed with the lady from Serenade that we’d stay together through the next few locks. She was heading for Beeston so would be 3 more locks, which are often easier with a “buddy” – it stops your boat from wandering about in the lock as it fills or empties and and if you’re single-handed like she was it means you don’t have to keep hopping on and off your boat if someone else is doing the paddles & gates.

Chestnut Thrush & Serenade waiting for the bottom lock to empty
It was around this point that my Mum-in-Law texted me to say happy birthday and I texted back to say I was watching the boat sinking in the lock … bad choice of words as she was then afraid that I meant our boat was in trouble and was sinking! My attempts to explain saying “no, it’s not sinking, just going down” didn’t help much! LOL. I did get the message across though that all was well!
On leaving the Bunbury Staircase it was a matter of 1/2 mile or so to the next lock – Tilstone Lock.

Chestnut Thrush (& the kids) in the bottom of Tilstone Lock
Next came Beeston Stone Lock and Beeston Iron Lock. As you can gather from the names, one is made of stone, one of iron.

Beeston Stone Lock

Beeston Iron Lock
The iron lock had a sign on it saying that it had become distorted. We checked with Serenade as she was more experienced than us, but she was happy for us to go through together again, so we risked it and it went fine. We moored up soon after the Iron Lock as according to our map book there was somewhere to buy groceries nearby. Of course I had totally forgotten it was Sunday and when we found the tiny village shop, it was shut! So we headed back to the boat and continued on our way.
Next lock was Wharton’s Lock, from which we had a great view of Beeston Castle – very impressing spot for a castle, way up on a craggy hill in the middle of a fairly flat area – you can tell why they picked it as a place to build!

Wharton's Lock
Leaving Wharton’s Lock we had a long stretch without locks so I had a go at steering the boat – I relaxed a bit more this time and really started to enjoy it
I steered for over an hour past moored boats and boats coming the other way
I felt rather proud of myself! There was a very long stretch of long-term moorings so we couldn’t go very fast. It was interesting to see all the boats and their little bits of the canal bank that they’d personalised for themselves.
After this long stretch, we were coming into Chester and it was time for me to go back to lock duty with Sarah. First we came to Christleton Lock, then Greenfield Lock, then Tarvin Lock, Chemistry Lock and Hoole Lane Lock.
As we were coming through Greenfield Lock, Richard got talking to someone on another boat and they mentioned that there was a Sainsburys nearby. Apparently only 3 minutes walk from just before the previous lock. As we’d not managed to find a shop earlier we decided we should make a dash for it and get some shopping in before it shut. However the 3 minute estimate was a little low and it was more like 20 minutes so we got there hot and bothered and a bit cross about 5 minutes before it shut :-/ So we weren’t big fans of the people who’d told Rich it was only 3 minutes. But at least we got the shopping we needed!
We caught up with another hire boat on the way through these locks – ‘Oslo Fjord’. They’d been told that they should go through all locks alone and were finding it pretty hard going – Helen who was steering was really not enjoying the way the boat moved around so much in the locks (wide ones). After our good experience of buddying up with Serenade we suggested they go through with us, so we headed into Hoole Lane Lock together.

Hoole Lane Lock with Chestnut Thrush & our new buddy 'Oslo Fjord' approaching
After this lock there was a short break from locks as we came into the centre of the city. We passed busy canalside pubs where we briefly became a little self-conscious as they watched us go by. Then rounding a bend we came into a steep rock cutting which was very impressive to see. Up above us on the left we could see the city walls, and over our heads went old bridges like the Bridge of Sighs.

Rocky cutting & city walls

Bridge of Sighs from beneath
Shortly afterwards things became a little more modern as we approached the Northgate Staircase locks under a major road bridge. The Northgate Staircase is made up of three locks and takes a little more thought than a standard lock. The theory that I had learnt before leaving home was if you’re going up down (as we were) you need the first lock full and the other 2 empty. This theory is great, but if you arrive and others are already in the staircase it takes a little thought to see what the current situation is, and if it’s safe for you to enter at this point. When we arrived there was a boat making its way down so it was safe for us to start at the top as they would be emptying the locks as they went down leaving them just as wanted them. We filled the top lock and then brought Chestnut Thrush & Oslo Fjord in together the make the trip down. I found this staircase quite amazing – just the feat of building it and the apparent simplicity of the way it works. Also the location was interesting with the contrasts of modern & historical, speed & slowness, industrialisation & nature … the busy road bridge, the locks, a busy rail bridge at the bottom, the city walls to our left and a little bit of a park to the side.

Top of Northgate Staircase Locks

Looking down Northgate Staircase Locks (including passing train!)

Interesting wood sculptures in the little park alongside the locks
After exiting the bottom lock we made a sharp right turn towards Tower Wharf where we stopped at the water point to fill up our water tank. It was raining by now, and it was quite welcome after all the hard work on the staircase. Some of the paddles were pretty stiff, and the gates were very heavy. At this point I ducked indoors to make some dinner as it was getting late and we were all tired and hungry – a quick meal of hot dogs did the trick! We got a few more miles of cruising in before we had to call it a day and get Abi to bed a little on the late side.
All in all an exhausting but exhilarating birthday!
Boat Log
Today:
Approx. distance travelled: 16 miles
Number of locks: 14
Total so far:
Approx. distance travelled: 38 1/2 miles
Number of locks: 22
Mooring:
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